Places to stay with a story to tell
Sup with Shakespeare and drink with Larkin. Stay with George Eliot, or in a Gunpowder Plot abbey. Take the plunge in a Georgian bath house and count sheep in a shepherd’s hut. Warwickshire’s pubs, tea rooms, hotels, B&Bs and cottages have many tales to tell – come and be part of their story.
Visiting with William Shakespeare: “And thereby hangs a tale”
The Bell Inn, Welford-on-Avon
Make yourself cosy in this lovely 17th century inn, an atmospheric confection of exposed beams, flagstone floors, oak furniture and open fireplaces. Shakespeare supped here with fellow playwright-poets Michael Drayton and Ben Jonson, though alas, it’s also said the Bard contracted pneumonia on his way back to Stratford in the rain. The roads are much better today and your hosts can always call you a taxi if needed, so relax. Tasty dishes here include homemade lasagne or locally sourced sirloin steak.
Billesley Manor Hotel & Spa, Alcester
Rumour has it that Shakespeare married Anne Hathaway in 1582 in the church attached to Billesley Manor, and his granddaughter, Elizabeth Nash, was married here in 1646. It’s also said that the Bard penned his comedy As You Like It at what is now Billesley Manor Hotel & Spa. In the Shakespeare Suite you’ll find more to tease your imagination in the form of a hidden ‘crawl space’ above the fireplace, probably used to hide valuables during times of strife like the English Civil War. Lots of mysteries to ponder as you kick back in this superb luxury hotel.
Ettington Park Hotel, Alderminster
This spectacular neo-Gothic mansion in 40 acres of parkland is the perfect haven to escape and chill. Ettington was once owned by the Shirley family, who for a while leased the manor to the Underhills, who in turn were friends of Shakespeare, and so Will became part of Ettington’s social scene, probably hunting here too. Incidentally, the Bard referred to the death of Sir Hugh Shirley – “valiant Shirley” – at the Battle of Shrewsbury (1403) in his history play King Henry IV, Part I.
If that’s not enough to pique interest, Ettington Manor was also the location for thee classic horror film The Haunting. Be assured, a spirit of tranquillity and warmth awaits you today!
The King’s Head, Aston Cantlow
William Shakespeare’s parents, John Shakespeare and Mary Arden, were married in Aston Cantlow church in 1557 and reputedly repaired to The King’s Head for their wedding breakfast. As John had been appointed one of two “able persons and discreet” to be an official ale-taster in Stratford-upon-Avon (checking that beer was wholesome and correctly priced), we can trust his choice of pub! Enjoy beers and ales from local brewery Purity among other refreshing offerings, and if you’re peckish the restaurant serves scrumptious fare like Aston Cantlow venison and pearl barley suet pie.
MacDonald Alveston Manor Hotel, Clopton Bridge, Stratford-upon-Avon
Shakespeare wrote in Twelfth Night, “In delay there lies no plenty, Then come kiss me, sweet and twenty”, which is a generous invitation! On the subject of which, look for the famous ‘kissing tree’ in the gardens of Alveston Manor, where Will allegedly shared his first kiss. It has also been suggested that A Midsummer Night’s Dream was first performed here. Romantic tales aside, this 4-star hotel is a great base for touring Shakespeare Country, with accommodation ranging from classic rooms to super deluxe.
Invitation to George Eliot country: “that warm little nest”
Astley Castle, Nuneaton
Astley Castle, available for self-catering stays through The Landmark Trust, is a remarkable property: with modern accommodation (sleeps 8; 2 twin, 2 double) stitched into the ruined walls of this historic moated site. George Eliot transformed Astley Castle into Knebley Abbey in Mr Gilfil’s Love Story, while nearby Astley Church, where Eliot’s parents were married, is cast as Knebley Church. In real life the Astley Castle site has been associated with three queens of England, including the ill-fated Nine-Days Queen Jane Grey.
The Griff House Beefeater & Nuneaton Premier Inn, Nuneaton
“Dear old Griff” was the home of Mary Anne Evans – better known today by her pen name George Eliot – from 1820 when she was just a few months old until 1841. In The Mill on the Floss Eliot drew on Griff House for descriptions of the Tullivers’ “trimly-kept, comfortable dwelling house” with its “great attic that ran under the old high-pitched roof” where Maggie “fretted out all her ill-humours” – her “favourite retreat on a wet day”. Come rain or shine, The Griff House Beefeater & Nuneaton Premier Inn is a comfy, friendly place to eat and stay, with family rooms and landscaped gardens.
Romance and poetry: with Scott, Larkin and Jonson
Golden Cross, Coventry
The Golden Cross pub boasts some lovely Tudor features, including a dragon beam – a diagonal beam that enabled upper jettied floors to go around corners. In more recent times, local lad Philip Larkin liked to read his library books here, to drink with his friends and, apparently, to ogle the barmaid. Boyhood memories of Coventry later coloured his poem, ‘I remember, I remember’.
Customers who come to the Golden Cross today (with or without books) don’t want for choice of drinks – real ales from far and wide, local gins plus gins from around the world, fabulous lagers, great ciders, a comprehensive wine list, selections of spirits, soft drinks, tea, coffee... and a menu of traditional homemade British cuisine.
The King’s Arms & Castle Hotel Kenilworth
In 1815, Sir Walter Scott stayed at the King’s Arms and Castle Hotel and began writing his gripping historical novel Kenilworth – telling the story of the mysterious death of Amy Robsart, wife of the Earl of Leicester who romanced Queen Elizabeth at Kenilworth Castle. Charles Dickens is also believed to have stayed at the inn while writing Dombey and Son, which included “A stroll among the haunted ruins of Kenilworth.”
What would the authors think? The rebuilt King’s Arms now houses Ego Mediterranean Restaurant & Bar. They would probably tuck in with gusto.
Sykes Holiday Cottages, Polesworth
Snuggle down in a self-catering cottage at Polesworth – there are two (sleeping 2 or 4 people) in the medieval gatehouse of Polesworth Abbey. Immerse yourselves in characterful comfort and visit the original porter’s office and his family’s living quarters to unlock tales about Shakespeare being educated at Polesworth. In the 16th century The Polesworth Circle of writers and poets gathered here, among them Ben Jonson, John Donne, Michael Drayton and Will. A Poetry Trail around the village builds on such literary heritage with a series of modern poems set on a range of installations.
At home with history: “If these walls could speak”
Bake 180 Coffee Shop, Middleton Hall & Gardens, Middleton
“If these walls could speak” is an apt sign inside Bake 180 Coffee Shop in the retail Courtyard of Middleton Hall & Gardens. Because they would tell of a business that began with Sarah Exall making and selling cupcakes that grew into this popular eatery. ‘Eat the story’: from flavoursome breakfasts to afternoon teas of luscious temptations like strawberry Victoria sponge and carrot-and-ginger cake, washed down with aromatic coffees. Vegan, gluten-free and dairy-free options are available.
Middleton Hall & Gardens itself has a 1,000-year history packed with tales, and its herb garden is dedicated to two notable 17th century residents: the great naturalists Francis Willoughby and ‘father of English natural history’ John Ray.
The Chapel House, Atherstone
Built in 1728, Chapel House was the dower house to Atherstone Hall (demolished in 1964). In the 19th century none other than Florence Nightingale stayed here when visiting her friends (and benefactors) Selina and Charles Bracebridge. The Bracebridges also spent time with Miss Nightingale on her famous mission to improve hospital conditions for Crimean War soldiers in Scutari, and helped to care for her there when she herself was ill. On their return to Atherstone the Bracebridges received a rousing welcome from townsfolk, who decorated their homes with flags.
You’ll receive the warmest of welcomes at The Chapel House today, a luxury B&B tucked away in the corner of the Market Square. Fine dining in the restaurant is unfussy classical European.
Coombe Abbey Hotel, Binley
Several of the men involved in the Gunpowder Plot to blow up King James I/VI, his sons and Parliament, hailed from Warwickshire. They also planned to kidnap James’ daughter, nine-year-old Princess Elizabeth, who was lodging at Coombe Abbey at the time, then to enthrone her as a puppet Queen, marry her off to a Catholic peer and thus make the country Catholic again. What could possibly go wrong? The plot was foiled, the royals escaped unscathed, and the conspirators got their come-uppance.
Set in 500 acres of parkland, sumptuous Coombe Abbey offers a fabulous escape, with rooms ranging from a palatial bedchamber ideal for romantic couples to spacious family rooms.
Write your own story
These are just a handful of the places to stay and eat that come with their own chapter of Warwickshire's story. Across the county you will find hotels, inns, cottages and B&Bs where history has left its mark - where writers wrote, royalty rested and plots were hatched. Wherever you bed down, there is every chance your surroundings have a tale of their own.