Warwickshire’s Waterways - north to south in two days
At a glance
Time: 2 days
The north of Warwickshire is canal country, but it is also river country - and the two are inseparable here in a way they rarely are elsewhere. The River Anker rises near Wolvey and flows north-west through Nuneaton before curving alongside the Coventry Canal for much of its route through Atherstone, Polesworth, and Alvecote, the two waterways running close enough together that you can walk between them at almost every stop. This day follows that shared corridor south, from the great historic junction at Hawkesbury down through the Anker valley and its lock flights, before cutting west to the extraordinary contoured loop of the Oxford Canal at Fenny Compton and finishing at Hatton's 21-lock Stairway to Heaven on the Grand Union. The Anker is one of Warwickshire's quieter rivers - its name derives from an old British word for a winding river, and that unhurried, twisting character defines it perfectly - but it rewards those who follow it.
Key highlights
Engineering highlights include the curved iron bridge and engine house at Hawkesbury Junction, Atherstone's eleven-lock flight and Hatton's 21-lock Stairway to Heaven. Polesworth Abbey framed by the Anker races beneath its tower and Napton-on-the-Hill's working windmill above the canal junction are architectural highlights while places of beauty include Alvecote Pools Site of Special Scientific Interest and the Oxford Canal's near-circular contour loop at Fenny Compton.
Water safety
When enjoying Warwickshire’s waterways, please follow national water safety guidance—be aware of the risks in, on and around water and take simple precautions to stay safe.
See National Water Safety Forum for more information.
Day 1: The North: Canals & Industrial Heritage
Stop 1: Hawkesbury Junction (Sutton Stop)
14 Sutton Stop, Coventry, CV6 6DFOne of the most historically resonant spots on the English canal network - where the Coventry and Oxford Canals meet, marked by a graceful curved iron bridge, an old engine house that once pumped water for the canal, and a working waterway atmosphere largely unchanged from when this was a busy coal-trading hub. The Greyhound Inn sits right on the water and is the natural place for an early coffee or breakfast before the day begins. The stop lock here is one of the narrowest on the entire network - barely wide enough for a single narrowboat - and watching the first boats of the morning negotiate it sets the tone for a day spent in the company of canals at their most characterful. From here the Coventry Canal heads north-west, with the River Anker waiting to make its presence felt a few miles on.
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Stop 2: Alvecote Priory & the River Anker
Alvecote, Tamworth, B78 1ASThis is where the canal and the River Anker come together most dramatically. Alvecote Priory, a 12th century ruin, sits right on the canal towpath, and immediately alongside it the Anker passes through Alvecote Pools and Meadows, a 316-acre Site of Special Scientific Interest and one of the finest wildlife habitats in north Warwickshire.
The pools are the flooded remnants of old coal workings, now colonised by reed beds, willow scrub, and open water that attract a rich variety of birds. The river here is quiet and winding - true to its ancient name - and the combination of ruins, canal, river and nature makes Alvecote one of those stops that consistently surprises people who have not visited before.
Park at Pooley Country Park a short walk along the towpath, where there is also a towpath café for a second breakfast or a coffee stop.
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Stop 3: Atherstone Locks & the River Anker
Atherstone, CV9 2BDThe River Anker runs through and alongside Atherstone, and the best of this stop combines both waterways. The canal delivers the drama: eleven locks dropping 80 feet over two miles through open countryside, with narrowboats working steadily through the chambers and the views across the Anker Valley - from the high points of Hartshill Hayes, 137 acres of ancient woodland visible above the town - giving a strong sense of the landscape these waterways were cut through. Between and around the locks, the Anker itself runs through the town, crossed by the old bridge at Mancetter just south of the flight. The King's Head is the canalside pub perfect for lunch right beside the water on Old Watling Street.
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Stop 4: The Oxford Canal Loop: Priors Hardwick & Fenny Compton
The star turn of the day, and one of the most unusual pieces of canal engineering in England. Between Priors Hardwick and Fenny Compton, the Oxford Canal winds almost in a full circle to follow the natural contours of the land - engineer James Brindley's philosophy of following the landscape rather than cutting through it taken to its logical extreme. The canal takes roughly five and a half miles to cover what is essentially two miles as the crow flies, and walking any section of it feels like stepping into the canal's original 18th century character: quiet, rural, unhurried, and largely unchanged. This is about as far from the industrial heritage of the Anker valley as it is possible to get while still being in the same county, and the contrast is one of the pleasures of the day. The Wharf Inn at Fenny Compton sits right on the canalside - a proper country pub with good food, outdoor seating by the water, and a warm welcome that has been serving canal travellers for a long time.
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Stop 5: Napton Junction & Napton-on-the-Hill
Stockton, Southam, CV47 8HXThe pivot point of the day - where the Oxford Canal parts company from the Grand Union and the character of the journey shifts again. The hilltop village of Napton-on-the-Hill sits above the junction and rewards the short climb handsomely: a working windmill at the summit, wide views across the Warwickshire countryside in every direction, and a genuine sense of being somewhere off the visitor trail. From the junction itself there are good short walks in either direction along both canals.
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Stop 6: Hatton Locks
Canal Lane, Hatton, CV35 7JLTwenty-one wide locks rising in an almost unbroken staircase up a long hillside on the Grand Union Canal - the Stairway to Heaven, and the grandest engineering set piece on the Warwickshire waterways. The flight rises nearly 45 metres over two miles and whether you walk the towpath alongside it or simply sit on the bank watching narrowboats work through the chambers as the light drops, it is a completely absorbing and beautiful place to end the day. The Hatton Locks Café, in the beautifully restored former stable block, is open for tea and cake with views up the full flight. The Hatton Arms pub at the top is the place for dinner - a solid country pub that does the job well after a long day's travelling through north Warwickshire's waterways.
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Day 2 – The South: Canals, Leam, Alne & Avon
South Warwickshire is where the canals give way to rivers, and this day traces that transition through four distinct waterways in a single natural arc moving broadly west and south. It starts on the Grand Union Canal at Stockton Locks - one of the most peaceful canal stretches in the county - before picking up the River Leam threading through the parkland of Royal Leamington Spa. From there the day crosses to the Stratford-upon-Avon Canal at its most spectacular, with the River Alne running in the meadows below the aqueduct at Wootton Wawen, and the Alne itself waiting to be properly met at Henley-in-Arden's wonderful little Riverlands area. The River Avon provides the finale - at Bancroft Basin in Stratford where the canal meets the river in front of the RSC, and finally at Welford-on-Avon, one of the most photographed village settings on the whole river.
Key highlights
Stop 1: Stockton Locks & the Blue Lias, Grand Union Canal
Long Itchington, Rugby, CV47 8LDA gentle, unhurried start on one of the quietest and most satisfying stretches of the Grand Union Canal. The Stockton flight is six locks in open Warwickshire countryside - nothing like the drama of Hatton's staircase, but rewarding in a completely different way: peaceful, uncrowded and set in a wide agricultural landscape that feels genuinely remote even though situated close to Southam. The Blue Lias pub sits right at the bottom of the flight and opens at 9am, making it the ideal place to start the day with breakfast before walking the locks. Under its current incarnation as Fat Bob's it has a motorsport theme inside and a reputation for generous, well-cooked food.
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Stop 2: The River Leam, Royal Leamington Spa
This is where the canal hands over to the river, and the handover is seamless. The River Leam - whose name, first recorded in 956, derives from the old British word for elm-tree river - threads through the heart of Leamington in a single connected riverside walk that takes in Victoria Park, Adelaide Bridge, the Pump Room Gardens and Jephson Gardens one after another, with cafés, river views and footbridges at almost every stage. The tea rooms in the old aviary building inside Jephson Gardens are the natural stop here, with the river forming the southern boundary of the gardens and fine views upstream and down from the footbridges. The 3.5-mile walk west along the Leam to Warwick - passing through St Nicholas Park with its views of the castle reflected in the Avon - is one of the finest town-to-town riverside walks in the Midlands and entirely flat, if you have time to extend the stop.
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Stop 3: Edstone Aqueduct & the River Alne, Wootton Wawen
Salters Lane, Wootton Wawen, Henley-in-Arden, B95 6DSEngland's longest cast-iron aqueduct, and the moment the day pivots from canal to river country. The Edstone Aqueduct carries the Stratford-upon-Avon Canal 145 metres across the road, the railway and the River Alne below in a narrow iron trough that looks faintly impossible even when you are standing under it. It is best appreciated from below - look up as a narrowboat passes overhead and the sight is genuinely arresting. Directly below the aqueduct, the River Alne flows through the meadows around Wootton Wawen, and Wootton Pool just north of the village is a rewarding short walk from the towpath. The Navigation Inn sits just below the aqueduct and is the place for lunch - open from midday at weekends, later in the week - with good food and an outdoor area beside the water.
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Stop 4: Riverlands & the River Alne, Henley-in-Arden
Prince Harry Rd, Henley-in-Arden B95 5DDThe River Alne rises near Tanworth-in-Arden and flows south through Henley before joining the Arrow at Alcester, and the Riverlands Nature and Play Area on the edge of Henley's high street is its most accessible and rewarding stopping point. With a footbridge, a ford, a gravel beach, a pond teeming with newts and frogs, and the river itself running clear and shallow through a green corridor of trees, it is one of those spots that feels disproportionately good for how easy it is to reach. The car park is free, and easy riverside walking extends in both directions from the site. For those who want a drink, Henley's characterful high street - a mile long continuous run of medieval timber-framed buildings - is a two-minute walk away and has several good options.
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Stop 5: Bancroft Basin & the River Avon, Stratford-upon-Avon
Stratford, CV37 6YYThe point where the day's two main waterways finally converge - the Stratford-upon-Avon Canal reaching its southern terminus at Bancroft Basin and emptying into the River Avon directly in front of the Royal Shakespeare Theatre. The basin is animated throughout the summer with narrowboats moored three abreast and visitors wandering between the canal and the riverside gardens. Walk south from the basin along the right bank past Holy Trinity Church and down by Lucy's Mill. Swans, the church spire reflected in the water, and the particular calm of the Avon in the late afternoon are all to be enjoyed before crossing back over the river. Rowing boats and canoes are available at Avon Boating throughout the season if you want a final hour on the water.
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Stop 6: Welford-on-Avon & The Bell Inn
Binton Road, Welford-on-Avon, Stratford-upon-Avon, CV37 8EBOne of the finest village finishes in Warwickshire. Welford-on-Avon sits beside the Avon in a setting that stops photographers in their tracks - thatched cottages lining the lanes, a working maypole on the green, and the river curving through the water meadows just beyond. The Bell Inn is the place to end the day: a traditional, well-run village pub with genuinely good food, a log fire in cooler months, and the kind of warm, unhurried atmosphere that a day spent following four of Warwickshire's finest waterways thoroughly deserves. Book ahead for dinner. The steak is the thing to order.
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